Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing Method for Left Turn Click Sound Solutions

That strange clicking sound when you turn left can make any driver uneasy. When it's tied to your crankshaft position sensor, the problem can go from annoying to engine-stalling fast. The crankshaft position sensor tells your engine's computer exactly where the crankshaft is during rotation. If it starts failing, you might notice rough idling, stalling, or even a clicking or ticking noise that seems to show up during left turns. Knowing how to test this sensor yourself saves you diagnostic fees and helps you fix the real problem before it leaves you stranded.

Why Does a Left Turn Click Sound Point to the Crankshaft Position Sensor?

A clicking sound during left turns doesn't always mean a bad CV joint or worn tie rod. In some vehicles, especially those with engine wiring routed near the steering components, a failing crankshaft position sensor can produce audible symptoms that become more noticeable during turns. When you steer left, engine weight shifts to the right side. This movement can stress an already loose or damaged sensor connector, causing intermittent signal loss. The engine's computer reacts to the lost signal, and you might hear a click as the system briefly cuts ignition or fuel delivery.

This is different from a constant ticking. The click is typically one sharp sound per turn event, sometimes paired with a brief stumble in engine RPM. If you've already ruled out common steering-related noises like worn CV axle joints, it's worth testing the crankshaft position sensor.

What Does a Crankshaft Position Sensor Actually Do?

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the rotational speed and position of the crankshaft. It sends this data to the engine control module (ECM), which uses it to control ignition timing and fuel injection. Without an accurate signal from this sensor, the engine can't run properly.

Most CKP sensors fall into two types:

Magnetic (reluctance) sensors generate an AC voltage signal as a reluctor ring passes by the sensor tip. They don't need external power.
Hall-effect sensors use a reference voltage from the ECM and produce a digital square-wave signal. They're more precise but require clean power and ground connections.

When either type starts failing, the symptoms can overlap with dozens of other problems. That's why proper testing matters more than guessing.

How Do You Test a Crankshaft Position Sensor for This Problem?

Step 1: Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Connect an OBD-II scanner and check for codes. Common CKP-related codes include:

P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent

P0339 is especially relevant here. An intermittent fault matches the symptom of a click that only happens during specific maneuvers like turning left.

Step 2: Visually Inspect the Sensor and Wiring

Pop the hood and locate the crankshaft position sensor. On most vehicles, it's mounted near the crankshaft pulley or the engine block near the flywheel. Check for:

Oil contamination on or around the sensor
Cracked, frayed, or melted wiring
Loose or corroded connector pins
Chafing where wires route near moving or hot components

Pay close attention to how the wiring harness sits relative to steering components. If the harness is too close to the steering shaft or rack, turning left could tug or flex it enough to break an intermittent connection.

Step 3: Test With a Multimeter (Magnetic Sensor)

If your vehicle uses a magnetic-type CKP sensor:

Set your multimeter to AC voltage (millivolt range).
Disconnect the sensor connector.
Place the multimeter leads on the sensor's two terminals.
Have someone crank the engine (or bump the starter).
You should see a fluctuating AC voltage reading, typically between 0.5V and 1.5V AC during cranking.
No reading or a very weak signal means the sensor is likely bad.

Also check the sensor's resistance with the engine off. Most magnetic CKP sensors read between 200 and 1,000 ohms, but always verify the spec for your specific vehicle. An open circuit (OL reading) or a reading way outside spec confirms failure.

Step 4: Test With a Multimeter (Hall-Effect Sensor)

For Hall-effect sensors:

Reconnect the sensor and turn the ignition to the ON position (engine off).
Set your multimeter to DC voltage.
Back-probe the signal wire.
You should see a voltage that switches between near 0V and near 5V as the engine cranks.
A stuck high or stuck low reading points to a failed sensor or wiring issue.

If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can see the waveform in real time. A clean signal should show uniform pulses. Missing pulses or erratic patterns confirm a sensor or reluctor ring problem. The YourMechanic guide on CKP testing offers a good visual reference for waveform patterns.

Step 5: Wiggle Test

Since your symptom appears during a specific maneuver (turning left), do a wiggle test:

With the engine idling, carefully wiggle the CKP sensor connector and its wiring harness.
If the engine stumbles, misfires, or stalls during wiggling, you've found your intermittent fault.
Focus on the section of harness that moves when the steering turns left.

This is one of the most effective tests for intermittent issues. It directly mimics the physical stress that happens during a left turn.

What Other Problems Can Mimic This Symptom?

Before you commit to replacing the crankshaft position sensor, rule out these common look-alikes:

Worn CV axle or CV joint clicking during turns, especially under acceleration. Usually louder and more consistent than a CKP-related click.
Loose heat shield or exhaust component can click or rattle when body flex changes during turns.
Low power steering fluid or failing pump can cause groaning or clicking, but usually tied to steering effort rather than engine behavior.
Worn sway bar links produce a single click or clunk during body roll in turns.

If your clicking sound also comes with engine hesitation, misfires, or a check engine light, the CKP sensor moves higher on the suspect list. If you want to dig deeper into the connection between steering left and sensor failure, our guide on diagnosing failing crankshaft sensor symptoms while steering left covers the full diagnostic flow.

What Are the Most Common Mistakes People Make?

Testing a crankshaft position sensor isn't complicated, but a few errors trip people up:

Skipping the visual inspection. A damaged wire or oil-soaked connector is often the real culprit, not the sensor itself.
Testing without the right spec. Resistance values vary widely between vehicles. Always look up the exact spec for your make, model, and year.
Confusing the CKP sensor with the CMP sensor. The camshaft position sensor is a different part with different specs. Double-check which sensor you're testing.
Replacing the sensor without checking the reluctor ring. A cracked or missing tooth on the reluctor ring produces the same symptoms as a bad sensor.
Ignoring the connector. Corroded pins or a broken locking tab can cause intermittent signal loss even with a brand-new sensor installed.

When Should You Replace the Sensor Instead of Testing Further?

If your multimeter readings are out of spec, the wiggle test causes engine stumble, and you've ruled out other causes, it's time to replace the sensor. CKP sensors are generally affordable, ranging from $15 to $100 for the part depending on the vehicle. Labor costs vary, but many DIYers can swap one in under an hour with basic tools.

For a full breakdown of what this repair costs at a shop versus doing it yourself, see our article on crankshaft position sensor replacement cost for left turn clicking.

Can a Bad CKP Sensor Cause Damage If You Keep Driving?

Yes. A failing crankshaft position sensor can cause:

Engine stalling at the worst time like in the middle of an intersection during a left turn.
Failed emissions tests erratic timing increases hydrocarbon output.
Catalytic converter damage unburned fuel from misfires can overheat the catalytic converter over time.
Hard starting or no-start conditions a completely dead CKP sensor will prevent the engine from starting on many vehicles.

Don't ignore the symptom hoping it will go away. Intermittent faults tend to become permanent without warning.

What Should You Do After Replacing the Sensor?

After installing a new crankshaft position sensor:

Clear the diagnostic codes with your OBD-II scanner.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. The ECM may need a short drive cycle to relearn the new sensor's signal.
Test drive the vehicle and make several left turns at various speeds. The clicking sound should be gone.
Re-scan after 50–100 miles to confirm no codes have returned.

If the clicking persists after replacement, the problem likely lies elsewhere possibly in wiring, the reluctor ring, or an unrelated steering component. Our guide on sensor replacement solutions for left turn click sound walks through what to check next.