Bad Crankshaft Sensor Causes Clicking

That clicking sound when you turn left can be unsettling, especially if you're not sure what's causing it. If your car also has engine performance issues, you might wonder whether the crankshaft position sensor is the root of the problem. It's a fair question and one that trips up a lot of drivers because the crankshaft sensor is involved in so many engine functions. Let's break down whether a faulty crankshaft sensor can actually produce a clicking noise during left turns, what's really going on, and what you should do about it.

What Does a Crankshaft Position Sensor Actually Do?

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) monitors the rotation speed and position of the crankshaft. It sends this data to the engine control module (ECM), which uses it to manage fuel injection timing and ignition spark. Without an accurate signal from this sensor, the engine can misfire, stall, run rough, or refuse to start entirely.

The sensor is mounted on the engine block near the crankshaft itself not on the steering or suspension components. That's an important detail when we talk about clicking sounds during turns.

Can a Bad Crankshaft Sensor Really Cause Clicking During Left Turns?

The short answer is: almost certainly not. A failing crankshaft position sensor does not directly produce a clicking noise during left turns. The sensor is an electronic component it doesn't move in a way that creates mechanical noise. Its failure symptoms show up as engine performance problems like misfires, stalling, or rough idling, not steering-related sounds.

Clicking or popping noises that happen specifically when turning left are far more likely to come from:

Worn CV joints especially the outer CV joint on the left side
Damaged CV axle boot a torn boot lets grease escape and debris in
Bad wheel bearings can produce clicking or grinding on turns
Worn strut mounts or sway bar links may click or pop under load during turns
Loose brake hardware sometimes shifts and clicks under cornering stress

Why Do Some People Connect the Crankshaft Sensor to Turning Noises?

There are a couple of reasons this confusion happens. First, when a crankshaft sensor starts failing intermittently, it can cause the engine to stumble or hesitate and that stumble might happen while you're turning. You hear a noise and associate it with the turn, when the real issue is the engine losing sync for a moment.

Second, some drivers notice that their check engine light comes on around the same time they hear clicking on turns. They assume one problem. In reality, these are usually two separate issues happening around the same time by coincidence.

If you're dealing with both symptoms, this guide on crankshaft sensor symptoms and what they actually mean can help you tell the difference.

What Does a Bad Crankshaft Sensor Actually Sound Like?

A failing CKP sensor doesn't typically make a clicking noise. Instead, here's what you'll more likely notice:

Engine misfires uneven running, especially at idle or low RPM
Rough idle the engine shakes or vibrates more than usual
Intermittent stalling the engine cuts out unexpectedly
Hard starting or no-start condition the engine cranks but won't fire
Check engine light often with codes like P0335 or P0336
Poor acceleration hesitation or stumbling under throttle

These symptoms point to the engine not receiving accurate timing data. None of them produce a mechanical clicking sound that correlates with steering.

How Can You Tell If the Clicking Is From CV Joints vs. Something Else?

CV joint failure is the most common cause of clicking during turns. Here's how to tell:

Clicking on sharp turns especially accelerating through a turn is a hallmark of a worn outer CV joint.
The noise gets worse over time starting as an occasional click and becoming constant.
Grease on the inside of the wheel a torn CV boot flings grease, which you'll see on the wheel rim or fender liner.
Vibration at highway speed a badly worn CV axle can also cause vibration while driving straight.

If you pop the hood and see a torn rubber boot around the axle shaft near the wheel, that's your answer. CV joints need grease and a sealed boot to work properly. Once that boot tears, the joint wears out fast.

Could There Be a Connection Between the Two Problems?

In rare cases, a vehicle with multiple aging components might develop both a bad crankshaft sensor and worn CV joints around the same time. This is especially common on higher-mileage vehicles (100,000+ miles) where several systems start to wear out in the same window.

Another scenario: if your engine is misfiring badly due to a crankshaft sensor issue, the uneven power delivery can put extra stress on the drivetrain, including CV joints. But even then, the clicking noise is still a CV joint problem the crankshaft sensor is just a contributing factor, not the direct cause.

What Should You Check First?

Start with the most likely culprit. Here's a practical order of diagnosis:

Visually inspect the CV boots look for tears, cracks, or grease splatter near the front wheels.
Turn the steering wheel lock to lock while parked listen for any noise. If you hear clicking at full turn, CV joints are very likely the issue.
Check for a check engine light if you have one, read the codes with an OBD-II scanner. A P0335 code points to the crankshaft sensor, but that's a separate problem from the clicking.
Drive in a tight circle in a parking lot accelerate gently through the turn. Clicking that matches wheel rotation speed is a CV joint sign.
Have the suspension inspected if CV joints look fine, check sway bar end links, strut mounts, and tie rod ends.

Common Mistakes Drivers Make With This Problem

One of the biggest mistakes is replacing the crankshaft sensor to fix a clicking noise. This won't solve the sound, and you'll waste money on a part that wasn't the problem. You can learn more about the cost of replacing a crankshaft sensor and whether it's worth it for your situation.

Other common mistakes include:

Ignoring the CV boot a $10 boot replacement can prevent a $300+ axle replacement if caught early.
Driving with a bad CV joint for too long a worn CV joint can fail completely and leave you stranded.
Assuming all clicking is the same clicking on left turns vs. right turns can point to different sides, and clicking only while accelerating through turns is different from clicking while coasting.
Skipping a proper inspection guessing at the problem without looking under the car leads to unnecessary parts purchases.

When Should You See a Mechanic?

Take your car to a shop if any of these apply:

The clicking noise is getting louder or more frequent
You notice vibration at highway speed along with the clicking
Grease is visible on the inside of a wheel
You have a check engine light alongside the noise
The car pulls to one side during turns

A mechanic can put the car on a lift, spin the wheels by hand, and inspect the CV joints, bearings, and suspension components in minutes. This is usually a straightforward diagnosis.

Quick Checklist: Finding the Real Cause

✅ Does clicking happen on sharp left turns? → Check the left outer CV joint
✅ Does clicking happen on both left and right turns? → Both CV joints may be worn
✅ Is there grease near the wheel? → CV boot is likely torn
✅ Do you also have a check engine light? → Scan for crankshaft sensor codes (P0335, P0336) but treat this as a separate issue
✅ Does the engine misfire or stall? → The crankshaft sensor may be failing independently
✅ Does the clicking match the speed of the wheels? → Almost certainly a CV joint or wheel bearing issue

Bottom line: A bad crankshaft position sensor won't cause clicking during left turns. If you're hearing that noise, your CV joints are the first place to look. If you also have engine performance problems, the crankshaft sensor might be failing too but those are two separate repairs. Diagnose each problem on its own, and you'll save time and money.