Crankshaft Position Sensor vs Cv Joint Clicking When Turning Left: Key Differences

You hear a clicking noise when you turn left. Your first thought might be a bad CV joint and that's usually a good guess. But sometimes the culprit is something you wouldn't expect: the crankshaft position sensor. These two problems can sound similar from the driver's seat, yet they come from completely different systems and need very different fixes. Mixing them up costs time, money, and frustration. Knowing the difference helps you describe the problem accurately to your mechanic or decide whether you can handle the repair yourself.

What is a CV joint and why does it click when turning?

A CV (constant velocity) joint sits at each end of the axle shaft. It transfers power from the transmission to the wheels while allowing the suspension to move up and down and the wheels to steer left and right. The joint is packed in grease and sealed inside a rubber boot.

When that boot cracks or tears, grease leaks out and dirt gets in. The joint wears down and starts clicking usually during sharp turns. A worn CV joint most often clicks when turning because the angle of the joint increases, putting more stress on the damaged components inside.

Key signs of a bad CV joint:

Clicking or popping during tight turns, especially at low speed
Grease splattered on the inside of the wheel or on the ground beneath the car
Vibration at highway speed that gets worse under acceleration
A torn or cracked CV boot visible when you look under the car

What is a crankshaft position sensor and can it click?

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) monitors the rotation speed and position of the crankshaft. The engine control module uses this signal to time fuel injection and ignition. It doesn't move with the steering, so you might wonder how it could cause a clicking sound when turning left.

A failing CKP sensor doesn't click on its own. Instead, it sends erratic signals to the engine computer, which causes misfires, rough idle, stalling, or sudden surges. Drivers sometimes describe these surges or hiccups as "clicks" or "pops," especially if the problem gets worse during certain driving conditions including turns, when engine load changes. On some vehicles, a failing sensor can cause the engine to stumble at the exact moment you're turning, making it easy to confuse with a mechanical steering or axle noise.

Common symptoms of a bad crankshaft sensor include stalling, hard starts, and unusual engine behavior that might surface during turns.

How can I tell the difference between the two?

This is the question most people are really asking. Here's a practical breakdown:

Feature	CV Joint Click	Crankshaft Sensor Issue
When it happens	During sharp turns, both directions or one	No clear link to steering angle
What it sounds like	Rhythmic clicking, faster with speed	Engine stumble, misfire, or hesitation
Check engine light	Rarely comes on from CV joint alone	Usually triggers codes P0335–P0339
Where you feel/hear it	Front wheels, underneath the car	Engine bay, dashboard area
Does it change with throttle?	Louder when accelerating through a turn	Engine may surge, stumble, or stall

One quick test: find an empty parking lot, roll down your windows, and make slow, tight circles. If the clicking matches your wheel speed click, click, click getting faster as you speed up it's almost certainly a CV joint. If the engine hesitates or the check engine light flickers, the problem is under the hood, not at the axle. You can read more about how to diagnose a crankshaft sensor noise specifically when turning left.

Why does the noise happen only when turning left?

A CV joint click that only happens on left turns usually points to the right-side axle. When you turn left, the right wheel travels a longer arc, increasing the angle on the right CV joint and revealing wear. It's the same reason a left-clicking noise points to the left axle when turning right.

With a crankshaft position sensor, there's no mechanical reason a left turn would trigger the issue. If someone reports a "clicking when turning left" that turns out to be the CKP sensor, the timing was likely coincidental the sensor was already failing, and the engine happened to stumble during the turn.

Common mistakes when diagnosing these two problems

Assuming every click is a CV joint. It's the most common cause, yes, but lazy diagnosis leads to wasted axle replacements when the real issue is elsewhere.
Ignoring the check engine light. If the light is on, scan for codes before chasing suspension or axle problems. A P0335 code points straight at the crankshaft sensor.
Not checking the CV boot first. Before spending a dollar on parts, look under the car. A torn boot with flung grease is a dead giveaway.
Confusing wheel bearing noise with CV joint noise. A bad wheel bearing usually hums or growls and changes with speed in a straight line. A CV joint clicks and pops specifically during turns.
Replacing the sensor without testing it. CKP sensors can be tested with a multimeter for resistance and with a scan tool for live data. Don't just throw a new one in and hope. For help understanding the cost and process of replacing a crankshaft sensor, talk to a trusted shop or do the research first.

How much does each repair cost?

A CV axle replacement typically runs between $300 and $800 per axle, parts and labor combined. Aftermarket axles are cheaper; OEM costs more. If caught early before the joint seizes or damages the transmission the job is straightforward.

A crankshaft position sensor replacement is usually less expensive: $75 to $250 for the part, and one to two hours of labor. Some sensors are easy to reach; others are buried behind accessories and require more time. The sensor itself is affordable, but labor varies by vehicle.

In either case, ignoring the problem leads to bigger bills. A CV joint that completely fails can leave you stranded or damage the differential. A bad CKP sensor can cause a no-start condition or engine damage from mistimed ignition.

Can I drive with either of these problems?

A mildly worn CV joint won't leave you stranded right away, but it will get worse. Driving on it for weeks or months risks total joint failure the axle can lock up or separate, which is dangerous at speed.

A failing crankshaft position sensor is unpredictable. The car might run fine for a while, then stall in traffic without warning. If your check engine light is on with a CKP code, treat it as urgent.

Practical checklist: CV joint or crankshaft sensor?

✅ Listen to the sound: Rhythmic clicking during turns = CV joint. Engine stumble, misfire, or stalling = sensor.
✅ Look under the car: Torn CV boot with grease = CV joint. No visible axle damage = check the engine side.
✅ Scan for codes: P0335, P0336, P0337, P0338, or P0339 = crankshaft position sensor.
✅ Do the parking lot test: Slow circles with windows down. Click that matches wheel speed = axle. Engine hesitation = under the hood.
✅ Check when it started: Gradual worsening with turns over weeks = CV joint. Intermittent stalling or hard starts = sensor.
✅ Don't guess test: Use a multimeter on the CKP sensor. Inspect the CV boot with a flashlight. Confirm before you buy parts.

Next step: If you're still unsure, get a free diagnostic scan at most auto parts stores. It takes five minutes and can tell you whether the engine computer is flagging a sensor issue. If no codes appear and the noise is a mechanical click during turns, have a mechanic put the car on a lift and inspect the CV axles directly. Accurate diagnosis saves you from replacing the wrong part.