Best Multimeter to Test a Crankshaft Sensor Causing Clicking Noise During Left Turns

Hearing a clicking noise every time you turn left is frustrating enough. But when that clicking turns out to be connected to your crankshaft position sensor, things get complicated fast. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) tells your engine's computer exactly where the crankshaft is in its rotation. If it's failing or sending erratic signals especially under certain conditions like a left turn your engine can misfire, stall, or produce odd sounds that mimic mechanical problems. A good multimeter is the single most useful tool for narrowing down whether the sensor itself is the culprit or if something else is going on with the wiring, connector, or signal output.

Why would a crankshaft sensor cause clicking during a left turn specifically?

This is the question that throws most people off. A crankshaft sensor doesn't mechanically "click." What's actually happening is the sensor is sending an intermittent or dropout signal to the engine control module (ECM) when you turn left. The turning motion shifts weight and can flex components in the engine bay, which tugs on wiring harnesses, moves connectors, or changes the air gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring. The ECM loses the signal momentarily, the ignition or fuel timing goes haywire for a split second, and you hear a clicking or popping sound often from the engine misfiring or from relays cycling rapidly in response to the erratic input.

If you've already ruled out common left-turn clicking causes like CV joints, wheel bearings, or strut mounts, and you have engine-related symptoms alongside the noise (rough idle, stalling, check engine light), testing the crankshaft position sensor with a multimeter is your next logical step.

What type of multimeter do you actually need to test a CKP sensor?

Not every multimeter will do the job well. Crankshaft position sensors come in two main types: Hall-effect sensors and variable reluctance (magnetic pickup) sensors. Each one requires different measurement capabilities from your multimeter.

Variable reluctance sensors produce a small AC voltage signal (typically between 0.5V and 1.5V AC at cranking speed). To test these, you need a multimeter with a reliable AC voltage range that can read low millivolt values accurately. You also need to measure resistance (ohms) across the sensor terminals to check for internal winding problems.

Hall-effect sensors produce a digital on/off signal and require a 5V or 12V reference voltage from the ECM. Testing these means checking the reference voltage, the ground circuit, and using frequency or duty cycle settings if your meter has them. A basic resistance check won't tell you much with a Hall-effect sensor.

A good automotive multimeter for this job should have:

AC and DC voltage measurement with low-range accuracy
Resistance (ohms) measurement down to at least 200Ω
Continuity testing with an audible beep
Duty cycle and frequency settings (useful for Hall-effect sensors)
Min/Max recording to catch intermittent signal dropouts
A decent sample rate so you don't miss fast fluctuations

If you want the full breakdown of which specific tools you'll need beyond just a multimeter, we've covered the complete diagnostic tools needed for testing a crankshaft sensor in more detail.

Which multimeters work best for this kind of diagnostic work?

You don't need a $400 lab-grade instrument, but you also can't trust the $12 meter from the bargain bin. Here's what works in practice:

Fluke 117 The Reliable Standard

The Fluke 117 is widely used in automotive shops because it reads accurately at low voltages, has a solid resistance range, and includes Min/Max recording. That Min/Max feature is critical for catching intermittent signal dropouts exactly the kind of thing that happens when wiring flexes during a left turn. It also has a fast bar graph on the display that acts as a rough analog meter, helping you spot fluctuating signals visually. It doesn't have frequency or duty cycle built in, though, so it's better suited for variable reluctance CKP sensors than Hall-effect types.

Fluke 88V The Automotive Specialist

The Fluke 88V was designed specifically for automotive diagnostics. It measures frequency, duty cycle, pulse width, and has a RPM function that works with inductive pickup clamps. For Hall-effect crankshaft sensors, this meter gives you everything you need in one package. It also has excellent low-voltage AC accuracy for variable reluctance sensors. The price is higher, but if you're doing regular automotive diagnostics, it pays for itself quickly.

INNOVA 3340 Budget-Friendly but Capable

For someone doing this as a one-time diagnosis, the Innova 3340 is a solid choice. It's designed for automotive use, includes temperature measurement, has a reasonable resistance and AC voltage range, and comes with automotive-specific test leads. It won't match the accuracy or build quality of a Fluke, but it's more than adequate for checking CKP sensor resistance and basic signal output.

Klein Tools MM600 A Solid Mid-Range Option

The Klein MM600 offers good accuracy, auto-ranging, and a CAT IV safety rating. It handles AC/DC voltage, resistance, capacitance, and frequency. For someone who wants a general-purpose meter that also works well for automotive sensor testing, it's a reliable pick without the premium Fluke pricing.

If your situation involves a scan tool alongside the multimeter, we've also written about professional scan tools that help identify crankshaft sensor intermittent failures sometimes pairing a scan tool with a multimeter gives you the clearest picture.

How do you actually test the crankshaft sensor with a multimeter?

Here's a practical, step-by-step approach for a variable reluctance CKP sensor (the most common type where this clicking symptom shows up):

Find the sensor. It's usually mounted near the crankshaft pulley or on the side of the engine block near the flywheel/flexplate. Your vehicle's service manual will give you the exact location and wiring diagram.
Unplug the sensor connector. You'll typically see two or three wires.
Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω). Measure across the two signal wires (not the shield wire if there is one). Compare your reading to the spec in your service manual most variable reluctance sensors read between 200Ω and 2,000Ω, but the exact range varies by vehicle.
Check for shorts to ground. With the meter on resistance, test between each signal wire and the sensor housing or ground wire. You should read infinite resistance (open circuit). Any continuity means the sensor windings are shorted internally.
Reconnect and test AC voltage output. Plug the sensor back in, back-probe the connector, set your multimeter to AC voltage, and have someone crank the engine. You should see a pulsing AC voltage (usually 0.5V to 1.5V AC during cranking). If you get nothing or a very weak signal, the sensor is likely bad.
Test while wiggling the harness. This is the key step for left-turn clicking. With the engine running (if it will run), back-probe the sensor connector and watch the AC voltage reading. Now physically wiggle the wiring harness near the sensor and along its route. If the voltage drops out or goes erratic when you move the harness, you've found a broken wire, corroded connector, or loose terminal not necessarily a bad sensor.

A code reader can also help confirm what you're seeing. If you're getting CKP-related trouble codes (P0335, P0336, P0339), pairing the code reader with a multimeter test gives you the most accurate diagnosis before replacing parts.

What common mistakes do people make when testing the CKP sensor?

A few things trip people up repeatedly:

Testing resistance only and calling it good. A sensor can pass a resistance test but still produce a weak or erratic signal. Resistance only tells you the coil windings are intact it doesn't tell you the magnetic pickup is working correctly or that the air gap is right.
Not checking the wiring and connector first. The clicking-during-left-turn symptom strongly points to a wiring issue, not a failed sensor. Always inspect the harness for chafing, broken clips, and corroded pins before blaming the sensor.
Using the wrong multimeter setting. Testing a magnetic pickup sensor on DC voltage will give you a reading near zero and you'll think the sensor is dead. It outputs AC, not DC. This mistake happens more than you'd think.
Ignoring the air gap. The gap between the sensor tip and the reluctor ring/tooth is critical. If it's too wide (maybe from a slightly loose mounting bracket that shifts during turns), the signal gets weak or drops out entirely. Check your service manual for the spec it's usually between 0.020" and 0.060".
Replacing the sensor without confirming the diagnosis. A new sensor won't fix a broken wire in the harness that only separates when the engine shifts during a left turn.

Could it be something other than the crankshaft sensor?

Absolutely. A clicking noise during a left turn that seems to come from the engine area could also be caused by:

A worn CV joint or axle the classic clicking-on-turns symptom, but usually more mechanical sounding and speed-dependent
A loose or corroded battery ground when weight shifts during the turn, a marginal ground connection can cause relay clicking and engine hiccups
A failing camshaft position sensor similar symptoms to a CKP sensor failure, and often on the same circuit
A damaged wiring harness near the steering column or engine mount engine movement during turns can pinch or stretch wires
Power steering system issues on some vehicles, the power steering load during a left turn puts extra strain on the engine, amplifying an existing sensor problem

The multimeter helps you rule the crankshaft sensor in or out quickly so you're not throwing parts at the problem.

What if the sensor tests good but the problem persists?

If resistance and signal output check out, shift your focus to these areas:

Inspect the wiring harness end-to-end from the CKP sensor to the ECM connector. Look for chafing against metal edges, heat damage, and rodent chewing.
Check the connector terminals for corrosion, spread pins, or backed-out terminals that lose contact under vibration.
Test for voltage drop on the signal circuit with the engine running. Any measurable voltage drop on the ground or signal wire indicates a resistance problem in the circuit.
Check the reluctor ring/toothed wheel for damaged or missing teeth. This requires a borescope or visual inspection through the sensor mounting hole.

Quick checklist before you start testing

✅ Vehicle service manual with CKP sensor specs (resistance range, location, wiring diagram)
✅ Digital multimeter with AC/DC voltage, resistance, continuity, and (ideally) frequency/duty cycle
✅ Back-probe pins or T-pins for testing at the connector without cutting wires
✅ Basic hand tools to access the sensor if removal is needed
✅ A code reader to pull any stored CKP-related DTCs
✅ Safety glasses and gloves you're working near a running engine

Tip: Before you buy an expensive sensor, spend 15 minutes with your multimeter testing the wiring harness. Most "crankshaft sensor" failures that show up specifically during turns are actually wiring problems. A $0 fix with a soldering iron and some heat shrink beats a $60 sensor replacement that doesn't solve the issue.