Here's something most drivers don't expect: you're making a turn, and you hear a clicking sound. Your first thought is a bad CV joint or a steering issue. But what if the real problem is your crankshaft position sensor? A failing crankshaft position sensor can cause a chain reaction of symptoms including noises that seem tied to steering. If you've noticed a clicking while steering and your engine is acting up, understanding this connection can save you from a roadside breakdown and an expensive misdiagnosis.

Can a crankshaft position sensor really cause clicking while steering?

It sounds odd, but yes a faulty crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) can produce or contribute to a clicking sound that you notice while turning. The sensor itself doesn't click. Instead, when it fails or sends erratic signals, the engine control module (ECM) gets confused about crankshaft speed and position. This causes the engine to misfire, stumble, or surge. When you're turning the wheel especially at low speed the engine load changes. A failing sensor can't adjust fuel injection timing and ignition timing quickly enough, and the result is an audible clicking or stuttering from the engine bay.

Drivers often describe it as a rhythmic click or tap that seems to sync with steering input. You can learn more about why a bad crankshaft sensor causes clicking during left turns in our detailed breakdown.

What are the main symptoms of a failing crankshaft position sensor?

The CKP sensor is one of the most important engine sensors. When it starts to fail, you'll usually notice several warning signs before a complete no-start situation:

• Check engine light Often the first sign. Codes like P0335, P0336, P0337, or P0338 point directly to the crankshaft sensor circuit.
• Engine stalling The engine shuts off unexpectedly, sometimes while idling, sometimes while driving.
• Rough idle or misfiring The engine shakes, runs unevenly, or hesitates during acceleration.
• Intermittent no-start The engine cranks but won't fire because the ECM isn't getting a crankshaft signal.
• Erratic tachometer readings The RPM needle jumps around or drops to zero while the engine is running.
• Clicking or stuttering under load This is the symptom that ties into the steering issue. When engine load increases during a turn, the sensor's bad signal causes noticeable engine stumble, which can sound like clicking.

If you're experiencing several of these together, especially along with a clicking noise during turns, a deeper look at crankshaft position sensor failure and steering-related clicking is worth your time.

Why does the clicking get worse when turning the steering wheel?

When you turn the steering wheel, especially in power-steering-equipped vehicles, the engine takes on extra load. The power steering pump draws more energy from the engine. On a healthy vehicle, the ECM compensates by adjusting the idle air control or electronic throttle. But with a failing crankshaft sensor sending bad data, the ECM can't compensate properly.

The result is an engine that stumbles or misfires under the added load of the steering system. You hear this as clicking, tapping, or a rhythmic hesitation. It's not coming from the steering column or the rack it's coming from the engine misfiring under stress.

How do you tell if it's the crankshaft sensor or a bad CV joint?

This is the most common mistake drivers make. A clicking noise while turning is classically linked to a worn CV (constant velocity) joint. CV joint clicks are distinct: they usually get louder during sharp, low-speed turns and change with wheel rotation speed, not engine RPM.

CKP sensor-related clicking is different. It tends to:

• Match engine RPM rather than wheel speed
• Come with other engine symptoms like rough idle, stalling, or check engine lights
• Get worse in any situation that increases engine load, not just turns
• Not change based on turning direction (left vs. right)

For a side-by-side comparison, check out our guide on crankshaft position sensor vs. CV joint clicking when turning left.

What should you do if you suspect a failing crankshaft sensor?

Don't ignore it. A crankshaft position sensor that's failing intermittently will eventually leave you stranded. Here's what to do:

1. Scan for diagnostic trouble codes An OBD-II scanner can pick up CKP-related codes even if the check engine light isn't on yet. Auto parts stores often scan for free.
2. Check for related symptoms Note when the clicking happens. Does it happen only while turning, or also during acceleration and idling? Engine-linked symptoms point toward the sensor.
3. Inspect the sensor and wiring Sometimes the problem is a corroded connector or damaged wiring, not the sensor itself. A visual check takes five minutes.
4. Test the sensor with a multimeter Resistance values vary by vehicle, but most CKP sensors read between 200 and 1,000 ohms. Your vehicle's service manual will have the exact spec.
5. Replace if needed A CKP sensor replacement typically costs between $50 and $200 for the part, plus $75 to $150 for labor. It's a straightforward repair on most vehicles.

What are the most common mistakes people make with this problem?

• Assuming it's always a CV joint Clicking plus engine trouble almost always points away from the axle. Don't pay for CV work when the real issue is electrical.
• Clearing the codes and hoping it goes away The sensor doesn't fix itself. If it's failing, it will keep coming back.
• Ignoring intermittent symptoms A CKP sensor that works 90% of the time will die at the worst possible moment, like merging onto a highway.
• Not checking the tone ring The reluctor ring (tone ring) on the crankshaft can crack or lose teeth. Replacing the sensor won't help if the tone ring is damaged.

Can you drive with a failing crankshaft position sensor?

Technically, yes until you can't. Some vehicles will run in a degraded "limp mode" with a bad CKP signal. Others will stall without warning. The engine might cut out mid-turn, mid-merge, or mid-intersection. Driving with a known CKP sensor issue is a risk not worth taking, especially since the repair is affordable and quick on most cars.

Quick diagnostic checklist

• ☑ Is the check engine light on with a P0335–P0338 code?
• ☑ Does the engine stall, misfire, or idle roughly?
• ☑ Does clicking happen in sync with engine RPM, not wheel speed?
• ☑ Does the noise occur during any engine load increase, not just turns?
• ☑ Has the tachometer behaved erratically recently?
• ☑ Is the no-start condition intermittent (cranks but won't fire)?

If you checked three or more of these boxes, have the crankshaft position sensor tested before spending money on steering or suspension parts. A $15 scan and a $75 sensor swap could solve what looks like a much bigger and much more expensive problem.