Cost to Fix Crankshaft Sensor Clicking Noise on Turns

Hearing a clicking noise when you turn the steering wheel is unsettling enough on its own. Add in a check engine light or engine performance issues, and you might be looking at a faulty crankshaft position sensor. If you've been searching for the mechanic cost to replace a crankshaft sensor making a clicking noise on turns, you're probably trying to figure out two things: what's actually causing the noise and how much it'll hurt your wallet. This article breaks down both, with real numbers, honest context, and the next steps you need to take.

Can a bad crankshaft sensor actually make a clicking noise on turns?

This is where many car owners get confused, and for good reason. The crankshaft position sensor monitors the rotation speed and position of the crankshaft and sends that data to the engine control unit (ECU). A failing sensor can cause rough idling, stalling, misfires, and in some cases, unusual sounds including clicking or tapping. The clicking noise you hear while turning may not always come from the sensor itself it could be a related issue the sensor problem is triggering, like erratic ignition timing that causes valve or fuel injector noise.

If you're trying to determine whether your crankshaft sensor is the root cause of a clicking sound during turns, it helps to understand how a bad crankshaft sensor can cause clicking sounds during left turns. The relationship between turning and the noise can sometimes be tied to wiring or connector movement during steering, which puts stress on an already failing sensor harness.

How much does a mechanic charge to replace a crankshaft position sensor?

The total cost depends on your vehicle's make and model, the sensor's location on the engine, and your mechanic's labor rate. Here's a general breakdown:

Parts cost: $20 to $100 for the sensor itself. OEM sensors cost more than aftermarket ones, but they tend to last longer and communicate more reliably with the ECU.
Labor cost: $70 to $300. On some vehicles, the crankshaft sensor sits right on the front of the engine block and takes 30 minutes to swap. On others especially transverse-mounted V6 engines or vehicles with tight engine bays it can take two to three hours because of the disassembly required.
Total cost range: $90 to $400 at most independent shops. Dealerships often charge more, sometimes $400 to $650, depending on the vehicle.

For example, replacing the crankshaft sensor on a 2015 Honda Civic might run $150 to $200 total at an independent shop. The same job on a 2012 BMW 3 Series could be $350 to $500 because of the more involved labor and pricier OEM part.

Is the clicking noise really from the crankshaft sensor or something else?

Before you spend money on a sensor replacement, make sure the diagnosis is right. A clicking noise on turns is more commonly associated with a worn CV joint or axle. CV joints click because the protective boot has torn, letting grease escape and dirt in. The sound typically gets louder during sharp turns and may worsen under acceleration.

The tricky part is that a failing crankshaft sensor and a bad CV joint can exist at the same time, which is why proper diagnosis matters. A mechanic can check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the crankshaft sensor common ones include P0335 (crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction) and P0336 (circuit range/performance). If no engine codes point to the sensor, the clicking is likely coming from elsewhere.

You can learn more about how to tell these two problems apart by reviewing a comparison between crankshaft sensor symptoms and CV joint clicking.

What are the warning signs that confirm it's the crankshaft sensor?

A clicking noise alone usually isn't enough to pin the blame on the crankshaft position sensor. Look for these additional symptoms showing up alongside the noise:

Check engine light is on with codes P0335, P0336, or P0339
Engine stalling or hard starting, especially when warm
Rough idle or misfires that weren't there before
Inconsistent tachometer readings or the tach drops to zero while driving
Poor acceleration or hesitation under load
Clicking that changes with engine RPM, not wheel speed

If the clicking changes based on how fast the engine spins rather than how fast the wheels spin, that's a strong signal pointing toward engine components rather than suspension or drivetrain parts. For a deeper look at the diagnostic process, see this guide on diagnosing a clicking noise when turning left related to the crankshaft sensor.

What mistakes do people make with this repair?

Getting this wrong can cost you hundreds of dollars and leave the real problem unfixed. Here are the most common mistakes:

Replacing the sensor without scanning for codes first. A $30 code reader can save you a $300 parts cannon. Always pull DTCs before replacing anything.
Buying the cheapest aftermarket sensor. Cheap sensors from unknown brands can fail within months or give inaccurate readings. Stick with brands like Delphi, Standard Motor Products, or the OEM part.
Confusing the crankshaft sensor with the camshaft sensor. They look similar on some vehicles, and mixing them up means the problem won't get fixed.
Ignoring the wiring harness. Sometimes the sensor is fine, but the connector or wiring leading to it is damaged, corroded, or chafed. Replacing the sensor won't help if the wiring is the issue.
Not clearing codes after replacement. The ECU may need a reset or several drive cycles to recognize the new sensor and turn off the check engine light.

How can you save money on crankshaft sensor replacement?

If you're mechanically comfortable, this is one of the more doable DIY repairs on some vehicles. On a Jeep Wrangler 4.0L, for instance, the sensor is accessible from underneath with basic hand tools. On a Toyota Camry with the 2GR V6, you might need to remove the intake manifold, which puts it firmly in "shop job" territory for most people.

Other ways to save:

Get multiple quotes. Independent shops typically charge 30% to 50% less than dealerships for this job.
Buy your own parts. Some shops let you bring your own sensor and charge labor only. Call ahead to confirm.
Check if it's covered under warranty or recall. Some vehicles have extended coverage for crankshaft sensor issues. The NHTSA recall database is worth checking.
Bundle the repair. If the mechanic is already doing other work on the engine, adding a sensor swap might only add $30 to $50 in labor.

What should you do right now?

If you're hearing a clicking noise on turns and suspect the crankshaft position sensor, here's a practical checklist to follow:

Get the codes scanned. Visit an auto parts store (many offer free scans) or use an OBD-II scanner. Look specifically for P0335, P0336, or P0339.
Listen to when the clicking happens. Does it change with engine speed or wheel speed? This single detail can point you toward the right repair.
Inspect the CV joint boots. Torn boots mean the CV joint is likely the noise source, not the sensor.
Check the sensor wiring. Look for visible damage, corrosion, or loose connectors before paying for a sensor swap.
Get two or three quotes. Compare independent shop pricing against at least one dealership quote so you know the fair range for your specific car.
Don't ignore it. A failing crankshaft sensor can leave you stranded if the engine loses its timing signal and shuts off while driving.

Addressing the problem early and confirming the right diagnosis keeps the repair affordable and prevents you from chasing the wrong part.