Diagnosing Crankshaft Position Sensor Clicking Noise When Turning Left

A clicking noise that only shows up when you turn left can drive you crazy especially when it turns out to be tied to the crankshaft position sensor. This isn't a noise you want to ignore. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) tells your engine control module when to fire the spark plugs and injectors. If it's failing or being affected by something mechanical, your engine could misfire, stall, or refuse to start altogether. Knowing how to diagnose crankshaft position sensor clicking noise when turning left saves you from replacing the wrong parts, wasting money, and getting stranded.

Why does a crankshaft position sensor click only when turning left?

This is the first question most people ask, and the answer usually comes down to wiring, mounting, or mechanical interference. When you turn left, the chassis shifts weight to the right side. Components flex. Hoses and wiring harnesses move. If the CKP sensor's wiring harness is loose, chafed, or routed too close to a moving part like a CV axle, steering linkage, or suspension component the motion of a left turn can cause the wire to short, ground out, or pull just enough to interrupt the signal. That interruption can produce a clicking or snapping sound through the relay or ignition system.

In other cases, the sensor itself may be loose in its mounting bore. A worn or cracked sensor housing can vibrate against the engine block or timing cover when the vehicle body flexes during a turn, creating an audible click.

Is this actually a crankshaft position sensor problem or something else?

Before you tear into anything, you need to rule out other causes. A clicking noise when turning left is more commonly associated with:

CV joint or axle noise – A worn outer CV joint on the right side clicks during left turns under load.
Steering column or intermediate shaft – These can click or pop when the wheel is turned.
Suspension components – Loose ball joints, sway bar links, or strut mounts can click or clunk during body roll.
Wiring harness contact – Any harness routed near moving parts can tap or click against metal.

The key difference with a CKP-related click is that it often comes with engine symptoms: momentary misfires, a tachometer drop, the check engine light flickering, or a brief stumble in power. If the clicking is purely mechanical with no engine behavior change, it's probably not the CKP sensor. If you're seeing both noise and drivability issues during left turns, that's a strong signal to investigate the sensor.

What tools do I need to diagnose this?

You don't need a full shop to start. Here's what helps:

OBD-II scan tool – To check for stored or pending CKP-related trouble codes like P0335, P0336, P0339, or P1336.
Multimeter – For testing sensor resistance, voltage output, and wiring continuity. Our multimeter test procedure for CKP sensor clicking during left turns walks through the exact steps.
Visual inspection light – A good flashlight or headlamp to inspect the sensor, harness routing, and mounting area.
Jack and jack stands – You may need to get under the vehicle to trace wiring and inspect the sensor from below.
Wiring diagram for your vehicle – Critical for identifying pin locations and expected values.

How do I visually inspect the sensor and wiring?

Start with the engine off and cool. Locate the CKP sensor on most vehicles, it's near the crankshaft pulley at the bottom front of the engine, or sometimes on the bellhousing near the flywheel. Check the following:

Mounting bolts – Is the sensor tight? A loose sensor can shift and click. The mounting bracket should have zero play.
Wiring harness condition – Look for cracked insulation, exposed copper, melted spots, or rubbing marks. Pay close attention to where the harness passes near the right-side axle or any suspension component that moves during a left turn.
Connector condition – Unplug the CKP connector and inspect the pins. Look for corrosion, bent pins, or a connector that doesn't click securely into place.
Harness routing – Is the wire zip-tied properly? Does it have enough slack? A harness that's pulled too tight will tug on the connector during chassis flex, which can cause intermittent signal loss and relay clicking.

What scan tool codes should I look for?

Connect your OBD-II scanner and check for codes. The most common CKP-related codes include:

P0335 – Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0336 – Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0339 – Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent
P1336 – Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned (manufacturer-specific)

An intermittent code like P0339 is especially relevant here because it suggests the signal drops in and out exactly what you'd expect from a wiring issue triggered by chassis movement. For a deeper look at what these codes mean and how to interpret live data during a road test, see our guide on scan tool codes for CKP noise during left turns.

How do I test the sensor with a multimeter?

If visual inspection doesn't reveal an obvious problem, electrical testing is the next step. There are two common CKP sensor types, and the test method differs:

Variable reluctance (magnetic) sensor

Set your multimeter to ohms and measure resistance across the two sensor pins. Typical values range from 200 to 1,500 ohms, but always check your vehicle's service manual for the exact spec. A reading outside that range means the sensor is bad. You can also set the meter to AC voltage, crank the engine, and look for a pulsing signal usually 0.5V AC or higher.

Hall-effect sensor

These use three wires: reference voltage (usually 5V), signal, and ground. With the key on and engine off, check for 5V on the reference wire and a clean ground. The signal wire should pulse between near-zero and 5V when the engine cranks. A stuck high or stuck low reading points to a bad sensor or wiring fault.

Wiggle test: While monitoring the multimeter or watching live data on your scan tool, gently wiggle the CKP harness near the connector and along its routing path. If the reading drops out or the engine stumbles, you've found the problem area. This is one of the most effective ways to isolate an intermittent issue tied to turning. A full step-by-step on this technique is available in our complete diagnostic walkthrough.

Can a bad CKP sensor actually make a clicking sound?

The sensor itself doesn't usually click. What you're hearing is typically a relay or ignition module responding to an erratic CKP signal. When the sensor drops out for a split second, the PCM loses its timing reference. It may rapidly enable and disable the fuel injectors or ignition coil drivers, and on some vehicles, you'll hear the ASD (Auto Shutdown) relay or fuel pump relay chatter. That relay clicking is what drivers describe as the "CKP clicking noise."

What are the most common mistakes when diagnosing this?

Assuming it's a CV joint – CV clicking is load-dependent and changes with speed. CKP clicking is tied to engine behavior and often has accompanying codes.
Replacing the sensor without testing – The sensor is often fine. The problem is frequently the wiring harness, connector, or ground.
Ignoring ground points – A corroded or loose engine ground near the CKP sensor can cause the same symptoms as a bad sensor. Always check and clean ground connections.
Not checking for TSBs – Many vehicles have technical service bulletins for CKP harness routing issues. Check with your dealer or sites like NHTSA for any relevant recalls or bulletins.
Skipping the wiggle test – This simple step catches intermittent harness faults that static resistance checks miss.

What's the fix once I find the problem?

The repair depends on what you found:

Loose sensor – Torque the mounting bolt to spec. If the mounting bore is damaged, you may need a repair sleeve or new sensor with a fresh O-ring.
Damaged wiring – Repair the damaged section with solder and heat-shrink (not just crimp connectors). Re-route the harness to avoid future contact with moving parts.
Bad connector – Replace the connector pigtail. Many auto parts stores carry vehicle-specific pigtail kits.
Failed sensor – Replace with an OEM or high-quality aftermarket sensor. Cheap sensors often have inconsistent signal output and can cause new problems.
Bad ground – Clean the ground point to bare metal, re-secure the bolt, and apply dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

Practical diagnostic checklist

Use this step-by-step checklist to work through the diagnosis in order:

✅ Note the exact conditions when the clicking happens: speed, turn angle, engine load, temperature.
✅ Connect an OBD-II scanner and record any stored or pending CKP codes (P0335, P0336, P0339).
✅ Visually inspect the CKP sensor mounting, connector, and harness routing.
✅ Check the harness for chafing near the right-side CV axle, steering linkage, or suspension.
✅ Inspect and clean the CKP sensor ground point.
✅ Perform a resistance or voltage test on the sensor with a multimeter and compare to spec.
✅ Do the wiggle test on the harness while watching live data or multimeter readings.
✅ Check for TSBs or recalls specific to your year, make, and model.
✅ Repair or replace the faulty component found.
✅ Clear codes, road test under the same conditions, and verify the noise and symptoms are gone.

Tip: If the clicking returns after replacing the sensor, the problem is almost certainly in the wiring or ground circuit not the sensor itself. Focus your effort on the harness and connectors before buying another part.